How to Grow Peonies

Peonies are some of the most beloved flowering perennials in the garden. They are famous for their large, luxurious blooms, rich colours, beautiful fragrance, and long life. A well-planted peony can become a feature in the garden for decades, and in the right location, some peonies can live for generations. They are the kind of plant people remember from a parent’s garden, a grandparent’s garden, or an old established neighbourhood where the same clumps bloom faithfully every spring.

In Metro Vancouver and the Pacific Northwest, peonies are a wonderful choice for sunny borders, cottage gardens, cutting gardens, mixed perennial beds, and feature plantings. They bloom in late spring to early summer, depending on the type and variety, and they bring a classic, romantic look to the garden just as the growing season is really getting going. Their flowers can be single, semi-double, double, Japanese-form, anemone-form, or bomb-type, with colours ranging from white and blush pink to coral, rose, red, burgundy, yellow, and soft apricot.

Peonies are not instant-gratification plants. They often need a little time to settle in, especially when planted from bare root or when moved from one location to another. The old saying for peonies is that they “sleep, creep, then leap.” In the first year they may appear quiet, in the second year they begin building strength, and by the third year they often start to show what they can really do. Once established, they are surprisingly easy-care plants, provided they are planted in the right place and not fussed with too much.

Main Types of Peonies

There are several types of peonies available to gardeners, but the three main groups most people encounter are herbaceous garden peonies, tree peonies, and interspecific or intersectional peonies, often called Itoh peonies. They are all peonies, but they differ in growth habit, appearance, planting method, and garden use.

Herbaceous Garden Peonies

Herbaceous peonies are the classic garden peonies most people know. These are the traditional perennial peonies that die back to the ground in late fall and return from the crown each spring. Their stems are soft and green during the growing season, and by autumn the foliage naturally yellows, browns, and collapses.

Most herbaceous peonies form rounded clumps with strong seasonal stems and large flowers held above attractive green foliage. Many varieties have excellent fragrance, especially the traditional Paeonia lactiflora types. These are the peonies often grown for cutting, and they are the ones most commonly seen in older gardens, farm gardens, and cottage-style borders.

Herbaceous peonies are typically planted with the eyes, or growing buds, close to the soil surface. Planting too deeply is one of the most common reasons they fail to bloom. In our region, the eyes are usually planted about 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. This shallow planting allows the plant to receive the winter chill it needs and encourages proper flowering.

These peonies are best for sunny perennial borders, cutting gardens, and mixed beds where they can remain undisturbed for many years. Many herbaceous peonies have heavy flowers, especially double-flowered varieties, so they often benefit from peony rings, grow-through supports, or discreet staking installed early in the season before the stems get tall.

Tree Peonies

Tree peonies are different from herbaceous peonies because they develop woody stems that remain above ground through winter. They are not trees in the usual sense, but rather woody shrubs. Their flowers are often very large, sometimes with a softer, more open, elegant look than traditional herbaceous types. They can be breathtaking in bloom and make excellent specimen plants.

Tree peonies usually bloom earlier than many herbaceous peonies. Their flowers can be enormous, with silky petals in shades of white, pink, red, purple, yellow, and blended tones. After flowering, the deeply cut foliage remains attractive and can add structure to a mixed border.

Because tree peonies keep their woody framework, they should not be cut to the ground in fall. Pruning is generally light and is mainly done to remove dead, damaged, weak, or crossing wood. This is a major difference from herbaceous peonies, which are cut back completely after the foliage dies down.

Many tree peonies are grafted onto herbaceous peony roots. For grafted tree peonies, planting depth is important because the woody peony should be encouraged to form its own roots. These are often planted deeper than herbaceous peonies, with the graft union below the soil surface. Always check the plant tag or ask nursery staff for the correct planting depth, because tree peonies and herbaceous peonies are planted differently.

Tree peonies appreciate a sheltered location with good light, good drainage, and protection from harsh wind. In warmer sites, they can also appreciate light afternoon shade, especially to help flowers last longer. In the Pacific Northwest, they are excellent in a bright border, near the edge of a woodland garden, or in a protected feature bed where their spring flowers can be enjoyed up close.

Interspecific or Itoh Peonies

Itoh peonies, also called intersectional peonies, are hybrids between herbaceous peonies and tree peonies. They combine some of the best qualities of both parents. They usually have the strong, mounded habit and seasonal dieback of herbaceous peonies, along with large flowers, excellent colours, and attractive foliage that often resembles tree peony foliage.

Itoh peonies are especially valued for their sturdy stems. Many varieties hold their flowers better than traditional double herbaceous peonies, often needing less staking. They also tend to have a long bloom period because a mature plant may produce many buds over several weeks rather than opening everything at once.

One of the big advantages of Itoh peonies is their colour range. Traditional herbaceous peonies are often white, pink, rose, red, or coral, while Itoh varieties can include striking yellows, apricots, soft oranges, creams, and complex blended colours. Popular varieties such as ‘Bartzella’ helped make yellow peonies much more accessible to home gardeners.

Itoh peonies are generally grown more like herbaceous peonies than tree peonies. They are usually planted with the crown near soil level and are cut back in late fall once the foliage has died down. Some may leave a short woody base, but they should not be treated exactly like tree peonies unless the label or grower instructions say otherwise.

Where to Plant Peonies

The best place to plant peonies is a sunny, open, well-drained location where they can stay for many years. Peonies do not like being moved once established, so it is worth choosing the site carefully from the beginning.

Most peonies bloom best with at least half a day of sun, and herbaceous peonies usually perform best in full sun. In the Pacific Northwest, full sun is often ideal because our spring and early summer weather can be mild and sometimes cloudy. A minimum of 6 hours of direct sun is a good target for strong flowering. Tree peonies can tolerate a little more light shade, especially in the afternoon, and their flowers may last longer if they are not exposed to the hottest part of the day.

Drainage is critical. Peonies dislike wet, soggy soil, especially in winter. If the planting area stays wet, puddles after rain, or has heavy clay that drains slowly, improve the site before planting. Raised beds, berms, or amended planting areas can help. Peonies grow best in fertile, well-drained garden soil that holds some moisture without staying waterlogged.

Good air circulation is also important. Peonies can be prone to fungal diseases when foliage stays damp and crowded. Avoid squeezing them too tightly between shrubs or planting them where they will be smothered by neighbouring plants. Give them room to mature, and remember that a small nursery pot can eventually become a substantial garden clump.

How to Plant Peonies

Fall is traditionally the best time to plant bare-root peonies because it allows them to begin establishing roots before winter. Potted peonies are often sold in spring and can be planted then as well, but they need careful watering through their first growing season. The most important point is to plant them correctly and avoid disturbing them once they are settled.

Prepare a wide planting hole and loosen the soil well. Mix compost into the surrounding soil, but avoid creating a small pocket of overly rich, soft soil surrounded by hard native soil. The goal is to improve the whole planting area so roots can move outward naturally.

For herbaceous peonies, set the crown so the eyes are just below the soil surface, usually around 1 to 2 inches deep. If planted too deep, the plant may grow leaves but produce few or no flowers. This is one of the most common peony problems and one of the easiest to prevent at planting time.

For Itoh peonies, plant according to the grower’s instructions, generally with the crown at or near the soil level and not buried deeply like a grafted tree peony. For tree peonies, check whether the plant is grafted. Grafted tree peonies are often planted deeper so the woody peony can root above the graft. This is a key difference, and it is worth getting right.

After planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Mulch lightly around the plant to help conserve moisture, but do not pile mulch directly over the crown of herbaceous or Itoh peonies. Deep mulch over the crown can mimic planting too deeply and may reduce flowering.

Growing and Caring for Peonies

Watering

Peonies like even moisture while they are establishing and during active spring growth. Water newly planted peonies regularly during dry weather, especially in their first year. Established peonies are reasonably drought tolerant, but they still perform better when they are not stressed during bud development and flowering.

Water at the base of the plant rather than overhead when possible. This helps keep foliage drier and reduces the conditions that encourage fungal disease. In our region, this is especially useful during wet springs or in gardens with limited airflow.

Fertilizing

Peonies are not extremely heavy feeders, but they appreciate fertile soil. In early spring, top-dress around the plant with compost or apply a balanced, slow-release perennial fertilizer according to the label directions. A fertilizer too high in nitrogen can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so avoid overfeeding with lawn fertilizer or heavy nitrogen products.

A good approach is to feed lightly in spring as growth emerges and maintain healthy soil with compost. Keep fertilizer away from direct contact with the crown. For established plants, a modest annual feeding is usually enough. Peonies often perform poorly because of planting depth, shade, crowding, or wet soil rather than because they are not being fertilized enough.

Mulching

A light mulch can help conserve soil moisture and reduce weed competition. Keep mulch a few inches away from the crown, especially on herbaceous and Itoh peonies. Avoid burying the eyes or crown under thick mulch.

Supporting Blooms

Herbaceous peonies with large double flowers may flop after rain because the blooms become heavy when wet. Place peony rings or grow-through supports early in spring when shoots are just emerging. If you wait until the plant is already tall and full of buds, it is much harder to support neatly.

Itoh peonies often have stronger stems and may need less support, although very large flowers can still lean after heavy rain. Tree peonies usually have woody stems and do not need the same type of support, but they should be planted where they are protected from strong wind.

Cutting Back

Herbaceous peonies should be cut back to the ground in fall after the foliage has died down. This cleanup helps reduce overwintering disease spores and keeps the garden tidy. Dispose of diseased foliage rather than composting it in a cool home compost pile.

Itoh peonies are also usually cut back in fall, though you may leave a short woody base if the plant naturally forms one. Tree peonies should not be cut to the ground. Only remove dead, damaged, or unwanted wood.

Common Peony Problems and How to Solve Them

Peony Not Blooming

A peony that grows leaves but does not bloom is usually reacting to one of a few common problems. The most common cause is planting too deeply, especially with herbaceous peonies. Too much shade is another common issue. Peonies also may not bloom well if they are newly planted, recently moved, overcrowded, or competing with nearby shrubs and tree roots.

Solution: Check the planting depth first. If the eyes of an herbaceous peony are buried too deeply, lift and replant in fall at the proper depth. Make sure the plant receives enough sun, ideally at least 6 hours for herbaceous types. Avoid moving peonies unless necessary, and give new plants time to establish.

Botrytis Blight or Peony Wilt

Botrytis is one of the most common peony diseases, especially in cool, wet spring weather. It may cause young shoots to wilt, buds to turn brown and fail to open, or leaves and stems to develop dark, fuzzy, or rotting areas.

Solution: Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and remove affected plant parts promptly. Cut diseased stems back and dispose of them. In fall, clean up all dead foliage. Avoid crowding peonies with other plants. If botrytis is a recurring issue, preventative fungicide may be considered early in the season, following the product label carefully.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew appears as a white or grey powdery coating on leaves, often later in the season. It can make foliage look unattractive, although it does not always seriously harm the plant.

Solution: Provide good spacing and air movement. Avoid overhead watering late in the day. Remove and dispose of infected foliage in fall. If powdery mildew is severe every year, consider improving the plant’s location or selecting varieties noted for better foliage health.

Leaf Spots

Peony leaves can develop red, purple, brown, or dark spots from fungal leaf diseases. These are often worse in damp, crowded, poorly ventilated conditions.

Solution: Remove affected leaves when practical, clean up foliage in fall, water at soil level, and avoid crowding. Do not let old peony foliage remain around the crown through winter.

Bud Blast

Bud blast happens when flower buds form but fail to open. They may dry up, turn brown, or remain small and hard. Causes can include late frost, drought stress, botrytis, poor nutrition, too much shade, or stress on a young plant.

Solution: Keep plants evenly watered during spring growth, make sure they receive enough sun, and maintain good sanitation. Protect newly emerging shoots if a hard late frost is expected. If the plant is young, patience may be the main solution.

Ants on Peony Buds

Ants are commonly seen on peony buds because they are attracted to the sweet nectar on the outside of the buds. They do not cause the flowers to open, and they are not usually harming the plant.

Solution: No treatment is usually needed. If cutting flowers for indoors, gently shake stems outside or rinse buds before bringing them in.

Flopping Flowers

Heavy double blooms can collapse after rain, especially on herbaceous peonies. This is not usually a health problem, but it can make the plant look messy and can damage stems.

Solution: Install peony rings or supports early in spring. Choose stronger-stemmed varieties or Itoh peonies if flopping is a recurring frustration. Plant in a site protected from strong wind.

Root Rot

Peonies can suffer in wet, poorly drained soil. If roots sit in soggy conditions, plants may decline, rot, or fail to thrive.

Solution: Plant in well-drained soil. Improve heavy soil with organic matter and consider raised beds or berms in wet areas. Avoid planting peonies where water collects in winter.

Best Uses for Peonies in the Garden

Peonies are excellent feature plants because they have a strong seasonal moment. Their bloom time is relatively short compared with some perennials, but their impact is unforgettable. Use them where their spring flowers can be appreciated, such as near walkways, patios, front entries, cutting gardens, or mixed borders.

Because peonies go quiet after bloom and eventually die back in fall, they combine well with plants that extend the season. Good companions include ornamental grasses, hardy geraniums, catmint, salvia, roses, alliums, irises, hostas in partly shaded edges, and later-blooming perennials such as echinacea, rudbeckia, and asters. The goal is to let the peony shine in spring, then allow surrounding plants to carry the garden later in summer.

Peonies are also outstanding cut flowers. Harvest when buds are soft and showing colour, often described as the marshmallow stage. Cut in the morning, remove lower leaves, and place stems in clean water. For the longest vase life, keep arrangements out of direct sun and away from heat.

Final Thoughts

Peonies are long-lived, rewarding plants that bring beauty, fragrance, and tradition to the garden. Herbaceous peonies offer classic perennial charm and wonderful cut flowers. Tree peonies provide elegant woody structure and spectacular early blooms. Itoh peonies combine strong stems, impressive flowers, and excellent garden performance.

The secret to success is choosing the right type, planting it at the correct depth, giving it sun and drainage, and then leaving it alone to settle in. Peonies do not like constant moving, overwatering, deep mulch over the crown, or crowded, damp conditions. Give them a permanent home and a little patience, and they can become one of the most treasured plants in your garden.

Visit Art’s Nursery to explore peony varieties, planting supplies, supports, soil amendments, and fertilizers suited to gardens in Metro Vancouver and the Pacific Northwest.